Bearded dragons, with their docile nature and relatively easy care requirements, have become increasingly popular pets, especially for reptile enthusiasts just starting out. These fascinating lizards from the Australian desert are captivating to watch and can become quite personable with proper handling and care. If you’re considering welcoming a bearded dragon into your home, understanding their needs is crucial to ensuring a long, healthy, and happy life for your new scaly friend. This guide will walk you through the essential aspects of bearded dragon care, making it easy for beginners to provide the best possible environment for their pet.
Understanding Bearded Dragons
Before diving into the specifics of care, it’s helpful to understand a bit about bearded dragons themselves.
What is a Bearded Dragon?
Bearded dragons (Pogona vitticeps) are medium-sized lizards native to the arid and semi-arid regions of Australia. They get their name from the spiky pouch under their throat which they can puff out, resembling a beard, especially when stressed or displaying dominance. They are diurnal, meaning they are active during the day, and are known for their relatively calm temperament, making them handleable pets. Adult bearded dragons can grow up to 18-24 inches in length, including their tail, and can live for 8-12 years with proper care.
Why Bearded Dragons Make Great Pets?
Bearded dragons are often recommended as good beginner reptiles for several reasons:
- Docile Temperament: They are generally calm and tolerant of handling, especially when accustomed to it from a young age.
- Diurnal Nature: Their daytime activity schedule makes them more interactive pets as you’re likely to be awake and active at the same time.
- Relatively Hardy: While they have specific needs, once those are met, they are relatively hardy reptiles.
- Interesting Behavior: Bearded dragons exhibit a range of interesting behaviors, from basking under heat lamps to waving and head-bobbing, making them engaging to observe.
Setting Up Your Bearded Dragon Habitat
Creating the right habitat is the foundation of proper bearded dragon care. A well-set-up enclosure will mimic their natural environment and allow them to thrive.
Enclosure Size and Type
Adult bearded dragons need a spacious enclosure. A 40-gallon breeder tank is the absolute minimum, but a 75-gallon or 120-gallon tank is highly recommended and even better. Larger is always better as it provides a better temperature gradient and more space for enrichment. Glass tanks are commonly used and work well, but consider screen tops for ventilation.
Substrate
The substrate is the material that lines the bottom of the tank. For juvenile bearded dragons, paper towels or reptile carpet are safe and easily cleaned options to prevent impaction (ingestion of substrate leading to digestive issues). For adult bearded dragons, suitable substrates include:
- Reptile carpet: Easy to clean and non-particulate.
- Tile or slate: Easy to clean, retains heat well, and helps file down nails.
- Play sand or a sand/soil mix: Provides a more naturalistic look, but ensure it’s reptile-safe and avoid dusty calcium sand. Loose substrates carry a slight impaction risk, so ensure proper husbandry to minimize this.
Avoid: Loose particulate substrates like calcium sand, reptile gravel, or wood shavings for young bearded dragons due to the high risk of impaction.
Heating and Lighting
Bearded dragons are ectothermic, meaning they rely on external heat sources to regulate their body temperature. Proper heating and lighting are vital for their digestion, activity levels, and overall health.
- Basking Lamp: A basking lamp is essential to create a hot basking spot at one end of the enclosure. Use a heat bulb or ceramic heat emitter to provide heat. The basking spot surface temperature should be around 100-110°F (38-43°C) for juveniles and 105-115°F (41-46°C) for adults, measured with a digital thermometer with a probe.
- UVB Lighting: Bearded dragons need UVB (ultraviolet B) light to synthesize vitamin D3, which is crucial for calcium absorption and preventing metabolic bone disease (MBD). Use a linear UVB fluorescent tube, such as a T5 or T8, that spans at least half the length of the enclosure and is rated for desert reptiles (typically 10.0 or 12%). Replace UVB bulbs every 6-12 months as their UVB output diminishes over time, even if the bulb is still producing visible light. Position the UVB bulb within 12 inches of the basking area and avoid placing it behind glass or plastic, as these materials block UVB rays.
Temperature Gradient
It’s crucial to establish a temperature gradient within the enclosure, allowing your bearded dragon to move between warmer and cooler areas to regulate their body temperature.
- Basking Zone: 100-115°F (41-46°C) (surface temperature)
- Warm Side: 85-90°F (29-32°C) (ambient temperature)
- Cool Side: 75-80°F (24-27°C) (ambient temperature)
- Nighttime: Temperatures can safely drop to 65-75°F (18-24°C) at night. Supplemental heating is usually not needed at night unless your house gets very cold.
Use digital thermometers placed on both the warm and cool sides of the enclosure to monitor ambient temperatures and a temperature gun to measure the basking spot surface temperature.
Humidity
Bearded dragons come from arid environments and require low humidity, ideally between 20-40%. High humidity can lead to respiratory infections. Use a hygrometer to monitor humidity levels. Ensure good ventilation in the enclosure to prevent humidity build-up.
Decor and Hides
Provide enrichment and security with appropriate decor:
- Basking Platform: A sturdy rock, branch, or platform directly under the basking lamp for basking.
- Hides: At least two hides – one on the warm side and one on the cool side – so your bearded dragon can feel secure and escape light and heat when desired. Cork bark, reptile caves, or even overturned flower pots can be used as hides.
- Climbing Branches and Rocks: Bearded dragons enjoy climbing. Provide branches, rocks, and driftwood for climbing and exploration.
- Plants (Optional): Artificial succulent plants can add visual appeal. If using live plants, ensure they are non-toxic and reptile-safe, such as succulents or air plants.
Feeding Your Bearded Dragon
A proper diet is essential for a healthy bearded dragon. They are omnivores, meaning they eat both insects and plants.
Diet Basics
- Juveniles (0-18 months): Primarily insectivores. Their diet should consist of about 80% insects and 20% greens/vegetables. Offer insects 2-3 times a day, as much as they can eat in 10-15 minutes.
- Adults (18+ months): Primarily herbivores with supplemental insects. Their diet should shift to about 80% greens/vegetables and 20% insects. Offer insects 2-3 times per week, and fresh greens daily.
Recommended Insects:
- Crickets: A staple insect, readily available and nutritious.
- Dubia Roaches: Excellent nutritional value and easy to gut load.
- Black Soldier Fly Larvae (BSFL): High in calcium and nutritious.
- Mealworms, Superworms, Waxworms (in moderation): Higher in fat and should be offered as treats, not as a primary food source.
Recommended Greens and Vegetables:
- Collard greens, Mustard greens, Turnip greens: Nutritious leafy greens.
- Dandelion greens and flowers: Another excellent leafy green option.
- Squash (butternut, acorn, spaghetti): Cooked or shredded.
- Carrots (shredded): In moderation.
- Bell peppers (red, yellow, orange): Chopped.
- Avoid: Spinach, kale, broccoli, cabbage in large amounts (can bind calcium); iceberg lettuce (low nutritional value); avocado, rhubarb, onion, citrus fruits (toxic).
Feeding Schedule
- Juveniles: Feed insects 2-3 times daily, offering as much as they can eat in 10-15 minutes. Offer fresh greens daily, even if they don’t eat much at first.
- Adults: Feed insects 2-3 times per week. Offer a fresh salad of mixed greens and vegetables daily.
Gut Loading and Dusting
- Gut Loading: “Gut loading” insects means feeding them nutritious foods before offering them to your bearded dragon. This increases their nutritional value. Gut load insects with leafy greens, vegetables, and commercial gut-loading diets for at least 24 hours before feeding.
- Dusting: Dust insects with a calcium supplement with vitamin D3 several times a week for juveniles and 1-2 times per week for adults. Also, dust with a multivitamin supplement once a week. Place insects in a plastic bag or container with a small amount of supplement powder and gently shake to coat them.
Water
Provide fresh, clean water daily in a shallow dish. Bearded dragons may drink from a dish or absorb moisture from their food. You can also lightly mist the enclosure once or twice a week, especially during shedding, to help with hydration.
Handling and Bonding
Bearded dragons can become quite tame and enjoy interaction with their owners.
Gradual Introduction
Start with short handling sessions and gradually increase the duration as your bearded dragon becomes more comfortable. Let them adjust to their new environment for a few days before attempting to handle them.
Safe Handling Techniques
- Support their body: Always support their body fully when holding them, especially their hind legs and tail. Avoid grabbing them by the tail, as it can detach.
- Gentle Approach: Approach them slowly and gently from the side, not from above, as this can be perceived as predatory.
- Hand Washing: Wash your hands before and after handling your bearded dragon to prevent the spread of bacteria.
Reading Bearded Dragon Body Language
Understanding their body language helps you know when they are comfortable or stressed.
- Head Bobbing: Can indicate dominance, aggression, or courtship.
- Arm Waving: A sign of submission or recognition.
- Beard Puffing: Sign of stress, defense, or display.
- Dark Beard: Often indicates stress, illness, or cold temperatures.
- Glass Surfing (Pacing at the glass): Can indicate stress, boredom, or enclosure issues.
Health and Hygiene
Regular observation and proper hygiene are crucial for maintaining your bearded dragon’s health.
Common Health Issues
- Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD): Caused by calcium deficiency due to insufficient UVB lighting or dietary calcium. Symptoms include lethargy, tremors, bone deformities. Prevent by providing proper UVB and calcium supplementation.
- Impaction: Blockage of the digestive tract, often caused by ingesting substrate or indigestible items. Prevent by using appropriate substrate and proper husbandry.
- Respiratory Infections (RIs): Caused by high humidity or cold temperatures. Symptoms include wheezing, discharge from nose or mouth, lethargy. Maintain proper temperature and humidity levels.
- Parasites: Bearded dragons can get internal parasites. Regular fecal exams by a vet can detect parasites.
- Mouth Rot (Infectious Stomatitis): Bacterial infection in the mouth. Symptoms include redness, swelling, pus in the mouth.
Regular Check-ups
Find a reptile veterinarian and take your bearded dragon for annual check-ups. Take a fecal sample to the vet for parasite testing at least once a year.
Shedding
Bearded dragons shed their skin in pieces. Shedding frequency depends on age, with juveniles shedding more frequently than adults. Ensure proper humidity and provide rough surfaces in the enclosure to aid shedding. You can offer a shallow dish of water or lightly mist the enclosure during shedding to help loosen the skin. Never forcefully remove shedding skin, as this can damage the underlying skin.
Hygiene and Cleaning
- Daily Spot Cleaning: Remove feces and uneaten food daily to maintain hygiene.
- Weekly Deep Cleaning: Replace substrate, thoroughly clean and disinfect the enclosure and decor with reptile-safe disinfectant.
- Water Dish Cleaning: Clean and disinfect the water dish daily.
Conclusion
Caring for a bearded dragon is a rewarding experience. By providing the correct habitat, diet, and care, you can ensure your bearded dragon thrives and becomes a wonderful companion for many years. Remember to always research and adapt your care as needed, and enjoy the fascinating journey of keeping these incredible reptiles. Starting with these beginner tips will set you on the right path to providing excellent care for your new bearded dragon pet.
