Getting the most out of your skincare routine isn’t just about the products you choose, but also how you use them. Applying your skin care in the correct order ensures that each product can effectively penetrate your skin and deliver its intended benefits. Think of it as building a house – the foundation needs to be laid before you can put up the walls. In skincare, this foundation is the order in which you layer your products.
The fundamental principle behind proper Skin Care Order is to apply products from the thinnest to the thickest consistency. This allows lighter formulations to be absorbed efficiently before richer, heavier products are applied. This method maximizes product absorption and prevents a phenomenon called occlusion, where thicker products create a barrier, hindering the penetration of lighter, beneficial ingredients. According to Mitchel P. Goldman, MD, a renowned board-certified dermatologist and founder of Cosmetic Laser Dermatology, occlusive products are designed to lock in hydration, but they can also block the active ingredients you want to reach your skin.
While elaborate 10-step routines might be trending, a truly effective skincare regimen can be surprisingly simple. The cornerstone of any good routine includes just three essential steps: cleansing, moisturizing, and sun protection. This minimalist approach keeps your skin clean, hydrated, and shielded from harmful UV rays. Furthermore, simplifying your routine can minimize the risk of skin irritation and adverse reactions often associated with product overload. However, if you aim to address specific skin concerns and wish to incorporate additional products, understanding the optimal application order is crucial. Let’s delve into a step-by-step guide to layering your skincare products for maximum efficacy.
Step 1: Start with a Clean Slate – Cleanser
Cleansing your face should always be the first step in any skincare routine, both morning and night. Think of it as preparing a canvas before painting; cleansing creates a clean base that allows subsequent products to absorb effectively into your skin. It removes dirt, oil, makeup residue, and environmental pollutants that accumulate throughout the day and night, preventing clogged pores and promoting overall skin health.
When selecting a cleanser, opt for gentle, alcohol-free, and non-abrasive formulations. Harsh cleansers can strip away essential skin oils, disrupting your skin’s natural barrier and leading to dryness and irritation. However, different skin types have different needs.
Key Ingredients to Look For:
- For Dry Skin: Seek cleansers enriched with ceramides, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or aloe vera. These ingredients are humectants and emollients that attract and retain moisture, keeping dry skin hydrated. Dr. Goldman also recommends looking for niacinamide, green tea extract, or chamomile for their soothing and non-stripping properties.
- For Oily or Acne-Prone Skin: Ingredients like benzoyl peroxide, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, and tea tree oil can be beneficial. These ingredients help to control excess oil production, unclog pores, and combat acne breakouts.
How to Apply: Begin by splashing your face with lukewarm water. Apply a small amount of cleanser to your fingertips and gently massage it onto your skin in circular motions. Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water and pat your skin dry with a soft towel. Cleanse your face twice daily – morning and night – and additionally after heavy sweating, such as after a workout.
Step 2: Toner – Balancing and Preparing Your Skin
While not always a mandatory step, incorporating a toner into your skincare routine can provide significant benefits. Toners act as a follow-up to cleansing, helping to remove any residual oil, dirt, or cleanser that might remain on the skin. This further prepares the skin for better absorption of subsequent products, like serums and moisturizers. Toners can also contribute to hydrating dry skin and restoring the skin’s natural pH balance, which is essential for preventing acne breakouts and maintaining healthy skin.
Key Ingredients to Look For:
- For Dry or Sensitive Skin: Hydrating toners with hyaluronic acid or rose water are excellent choices, according to Dr. Goldman. These ingredients provide a boost of hydration and soothe sensitive skin.
- For Oily and Acne-Prone Skin: Look for toners with astringent properties, which help to remove excess oil. Effective ingredients include salicylic acid or witch hazel.
How to Apply: After cleansing, soak a cotton pad or ball with toner. Gently sweep or pat the toner across your face, avoiding the eye area. Allow the toner to air dry slightly before proceeding to the next step.
Step 3: Spot Treatments – Targeted Action for Specific Concerns
If you are targeting specific skin concerns such as blemishes, dark spots, or areas of hyperpigmentation, spot treatments should be applied early in your routine, right after cleansing or toning. These products are designed to deliver concentrated active ingredients to small, specific areas of the skin. Applying them to freshly cleansed and toned skin maximizes the penetration of these active ingredients and their effectiveness.
Key Ingredients to Look For:
- For Acne: Dr. Goldman recommends spot treatments containing benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid. These ingredients are proven to combat acne by killing bacteria and exfoliating dead skin cells.
- For Dark Spots: Ingredients like hydroquinone or kojic acid are effective for fading dark spots and hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanin production.
How to Apply: After cleansing and toning, apply a small amount of spot treatment directly to the affected area using clean fingertips. Use these products as needed, and always adhere to the manufacturer’s instructions regarding application frequency and amount. If you are using serums or other treatments after spot treatments, avoid layering them directly over the treated areas to prevent potential irritation or product interactions.
Step 4: Serums – Concentrated Actives for Deeper Penetration
Serums are potent skincare formulations designed for rapid absorption and deep penetration. They should be applied directly to the skin’s surface after cleansing or toning, and following any spot treatments. The term “serum” encompasses a wide range of products, all characterized by a high concentration of active ingredients formulated to address specific skin concerns.
Serums are typically lightweight and water-based, allowing them to penetrate the skin efficiently and deliver targeted benefits such as hydration, brightening, anti-aging, or acne treatment. Popular serum categories include Vitamin C serums, niacinamide serums, anti-aging serums, and hydrating serums.
Key Ingredients and Benefits:
- Vitamin C: Known for its brightening properties, Vitamin C helps to even out skin tone, soften wrinkles, and diminish hyperpigmentation.
- Niacinamide: This versatile ingredient smooths fine lines, reduces acne, minimizes pores, balances oil production, and brightens the complexion.
- Vitamin E, Hyaluronic Acid, Peptides, Ceramides, and Glycerin: These ingredients are powerful hydrators and moisture-locking agents, essential for maintaining skin plumpness and elasticity.
- Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) like Glycolic and Lactic Acid: AHAs provide gentle exfoliation, smoothing fine lines and improving skin texture while also hydrating the skin.
- Salicylic Acid and Azelaic Acid: Effective for acne-prone skin, these ingredients clear out pores and reduce inflammation.
How to Apply: Dispense a pea-sized amount of serum, or the amount recommended by the product instructions, onto your fingertips. Gently apply the serum to your face and neck using light, tapping motions. Allow the serum to absorb fully before proceeding to the next step.
Navigating Active Ingredient Combinations
When incorporating multiple treatments or serums, it’s crucial to be mindful of potential interactions between active ingredients. “It is generally advisable to avoid combining retinol with alpha or beta hydroxy acids, as this combination can lead to excessive dryness or irritation,” advises Dr. Goldman. “Furthermore, mixing vitamin C with niacinamide may reduce the efficacy of both ingredients.”
If you are uncertain about layering specific active ingredients, consulting with a dermatologist is always recommended. They can provide personalized guidance based on your skin type and the products you are using.
Step 5: Retinol and Retinoid Treatments – Nighttime Rejuvenation
Retinol and other retinoid treatments are typically thicker than serums and should be applied after serums and before moisturizers in your nighttime routine. “Applying retinol cream after serum ensures that the active ingredients in the serum have already penetrated the skin. This allows the retinol to reach deeper layers of the skin, maximizing its benefits,” explains Dr. Goldman.
Retinoids, derived from vitamin A, are powerful ingredients known for stimulating cell turnover, boosting collagen production, and improving overall skin texture. They are highly effective for addressing anti-aging concerns and acne.
Key Ingredients and Types:
- Over-the-Counter (OTC) Retinoids: Retinol, retinyl palmitate, and retinaldehyde are milder forms of retinoids available OTC. They are suitable for individuals with sensitive skin, minimal wrinkles, or mild acne, uneven skin tone, and hyperpigmentation.
- Prescription Retinoids: For more severe acne and noticeable wrinkles, dermatologists often prescribe stronger retinoid treatments such as Differin (adapalene), Retin-A (tretinoin), Tazorac (tazarotene), and Aklief (trifarotene). OTC Differin (adapalene) is also available and is FDA-approved for acne treatment.
How to Apply: Begin with a small amount – about pea-sized – of retinol or retinoid treatment. Apply it to your face every other night initially to allow your skin to adjust. Gradually increase frequency as tolerated. Retinoids increase skin sensitivity to the sun, so they should only be used in your nighttime routine. Always apply sunscreen during the day when using retinoids.
Step 6: Eye Cream – Targeted Hydration and Care for the Delicate Eye Area
If you incorporate an eye cream into your routine, it should be applied after treatments like serums and retinoids. Eye creams are typically richer in texture and applying them at this stage helps them absorb effectively. While not strictly necessary, eye creams are specifically formulated to provide extra moisture and hydration to the delicate skin around the eyes, which is prone to wrinkles, dryness, and sun damage.
Key Ingredients to Look For:
- Day Eye Creams: Dr. Goldman suggests looking for ingredients like peptides, antioxidants (such as vitamin C or green tea extract), and SPF for daytime eye creams. These ingredients help to protect against sun damage and environmental stressors.
- Night Eye Creams: Nighttime formulas can benefit from ingredients like retinol, niacinamide, or hyaluronic acid to promote skin repair and hydration while you sleep.
How to Apply: Using your ring finger (which applies the least pressure), gently dab a small amount of eye cream onto the undereye area after applying your serum or retinol. Avoid pulling or rubbing the delicate skin around the eyes.
Step 7: Moisturizer – Hydration and Barrier Support
Moisturizers are generally thicker in consistency than serums and treatments and should be applied after lighter-weight products. If you are following a minimal skincare routine, moisturizer is applied immediately after cleansing. Moisturizers are essential for increasing the water content in your skin and repairing and maintaining your skin’s protective barrier. They also create a seal on the skin, which can hinder the absorption of thinner products if applied earlier in the routine.
Key Ingredients to Look For:
- For Dry Skin: Dr. Goldman recommends moisturizers containing ceramides, glycerin, or shea butter for intense hydration and barrier repair.
- For Oily or Acne-Prone Skin: Opt for oil-free, non-comedogenic moisturizers with ingredients like hyaluronic acid or lightweight gel formulations. These provide hydration without clogging pores or feeling heavy on the skin.
How to Apply: Gently massage your moisturizer onto your entire face and neck, including the under-eye area if you are not using a separate eye cream.
Step 8: Face Oils – Extra Hydration and Nourishment
Face oils are designed to provide an extra layer of moisture and hydration to the skin. They should always be applied as the last step in your skincare routine, after your moisturizer. “Face oils are typically thicker and heavier than moisturizers and can create a barrier that prevents the moisturizer from fully penetrating the skin if applied beforehand,” explains Dr. Goldman. Applying oil last locks in all the previous layers of skincare and provides a final emollient boost.
Key Ingredients to Look For:
- For Nourishing and Hydrating: Face oils rich in fatty acids like argan oil, coconut oil, or avocado oil are beneficial.
- For Soothing Irritated Skin: Chamomile oil and rosehip oil are known for their calming properties.
- For Oily Skin: Lighter oils like jojoba oil and grapeseed oil can help regulate oil production without feeling greasy.
How to Apply: After moisturizing, add a few drops of face oil to your fingertips or directly onto your forehead and cheeks. Gently massage the oil into your facial skin and neck.
Step 9: Sunscreen – Daily Protection is Non-Negotiable
Sunscreen is not just for sunny days at the beach; it is a crucial daily step in your morning skincare routine. Sunscreen should always be the final step in your daytime regimen, applied after all other skincare products, including moisturizer and face oil. Daily sunscreen use protects your skin from harmful ultraviolet (UV) rays, which are the primary cause of skin cancer and premature aging, including sunspots and wrinkles.
The American Academy of Dermatology recommends using a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a sun protection factor (SPF) of 30 or higher. While cosmetics and moisturizers with SPF are available, they may not provide sufficient coverage for prolonged sun exposure, according to Dr. Goldman.
How to Apply: Generously apply sunscreen to your face, neck, chest, and ears. A general guideline is to use about 2 milligrams of sunscreen per square centimeter of skin, which translates to roughly a nickel-sized amount for the face. Chemical sunscreens should be applied 15 minutes before sun exposure to allow for absorption, while mineral sunscreens work immediately. Regardless of type, sunscreen should be reapplied every two hours, especially after swimming or sweating.
Medically reviewed by Brendan Camp, MD, FAAD
Why the Correct Order Truly Matters
The order in which you apply your skincare products is critical due to factors such as absorption, consistency, and pH balance, as Dr. Goldman explains.
Your skin has a limited capacity to absorb products. Applying skincare in the wrong order reduces the absorption of active ingredients, diminishing their effectiveness. Using thicker products, like moisturizers, before thinner products, like serums, physically prevents the lighter formulations from penetrating the skin barrier.
Correct skincare layering also helps maintain your skin’s optimal pH balance, which is essential for product efficacy. “Certain products, such as chemical exfoliants or pH-dependent actives, require a specific pH range to function optimally,” notes Dr. Goldman. Applying products in the correct sequence helps to ensure that the skin’s pH is properly balanced, allowing each product to work as intended.
Quick Order Recap
Layering your skincare products in the correct order is essential for maximizing the benefits of your routine and ensuring that your investment in skincare products pays off. A simple rule of thumb is to always apply your products from the thinnest to thickest consistency to optimize absorption.
At a minimum, your essential skincare routine should include cleansing, moisturizing, and sunscreen. If you wish to address specific skin concerns, incorporate targeted treatments like spot treatments, serums, and retinoids into your routine, applied in the correct order.
If you need personalized advice on the best active ingredients and products for your individual skin type and concerns, consulting with a dermatologist is highly recommended. They can provide expert guidance to help you achieve your skincare goals effectively.
