Working under your car can save you money and give you a sense of accomplishment. However, safety should always be your top priority, especially when lifting a vehicle. Improperly placed jack stands can lead to serious accidents, as I’ve learned firsthand over my 50 years of working on cars. I’ve had a couple of close calls that underscore the importance of knowing exactly where to put jack stands under your car. Let me share a bit of my experience and guide you through the safe and correct procedures.
Once, while working on a stripped Camaro shell, I thought I had it securely balanced on four jack stands. Suddenly, the front end began to lift and the car teetered dangerously backward. It was a terrifying moment, and I barely managed to prevent it from falling. Another time, with my Nova, I made a simple but critical mistake: forgetting to put the transmission in neutral while jacking up the front. The car couldn’t roll, the jack didn’t roll, and the car slipped right off the jack. Luckily, damage was minimal, but my pride was certainly bruised.
These experiences, and countless others I’ve heard from fellow car enthusiasts, have reinforced the vital need for a clear understanding of safe lifting practices. This guide will walk you through the essential steps to properly and safely lift your car and position jack stands, ensuring your safety and preventing damage to your vehicle.
Lifting the Front of Your Car: A Step-by-Step Guide
I always prioritize lifting the front of the car first. It’s generally the heavier end, housing the engine, and securing it first provides a more stable base. Before you even position your jack, remember these crucial steps: ensure the transmission is in neutral and the parking brake is disengaged. This allows the car to roll slightly as it’s lifted, preventing binding and potential slippage.
Many vehicles have a crossmember located under the engine that appears to be a convenient jacking point. While it can be used, directly jacking on the crossmember can cause deformation. To prevent damage, I recommend using a short piece of 2×4 lumber, about 12 to 18 inches long, between the floor jack pad and the crossmember. This distributes the lifting force and protects the crossmember from bending.
For added safety, I often use ramps in conjunction with jack stands when working on the front of the car. Instead of driving the car onto the ramps, which can be risky, I use a floor jack to lift the front and then carefully slide the ramps under the front tires. If your car has a full frame or a subframe, like my Nova or a classic Camaro, you can also place jack stands under the frame rails for an extra layer of security. However, be aware that placing stands under the frame rails might reduce the available space to work under the car.
Alt text: Lifting the front of a Chevy Nova using a floor jack on the front crossmember, illustrating a common jacking point for front car lifting.
Lifting the Rear of Your Car: Ensuring Stability
When lifting the rear of the vehicle, my go-to jacking point is usually the center section of the rear axle. From there, I place jack stands under each axle tube, as these are strong and stable points. Similar to the front, frame rails or subframe connectors (if your car is equipped with them) can also serve as robust locations for jack stand placement.
However, some car designs, like my Nova, present challenges in the rear chassis area. The presence of a rear sway bar can interfere with the floor jack as the car is raised. To overcome this, I use a block of wood between the jack pad and the rear axle housing. This creates the necessary clearance and allows for a smooth and safe lifting process.
Alt text: Wooden blocks prepared for use on a floor jack pad, showing a practical solution to increase clearance and prevent interference during car lifting.
Side Lifting: A Cautious Approach
Another method for lifting your car is from the side. This involves jacking up one side of the vehicle, placing jack stands, and then repeating the process on the opposite side. While convenient, this method demands extra caution. It’s easy to lift one side too high, potentially destabilizing the car. Always use wheel chocks, positioning them in front of the front wheels and behind the rear wheels, to prevent any unwanted rolling. Additionally, ensure the transmission is in park (for automatic) or in gear (first gear for front lifting, reverse for rear lifting in manuals) to further prevent movement.
Modern unibody cars often have designated reinforced areas along the body or rocker panel seams specifically designed as jacking points. These are usually indicated by notches or markings. These reinforced points are ideal for both lifting the car with a floor jack and for positioning jack stands. Avoid using the flimsy scissor jack that comes with most cars for anything beyond changing a tire on the roadside. A quality floor jack provides far more stability and control.
Alt text: A floor jack positioned under a Chevy Nova, demonstrating side lifting and a potential jack stand placement point on the frame connector.
Corvette Specific Jacking Points: A Unique Case
Some vehicles have unique jacking requirements. Vintage Corvettes are a prime example. Certain models feature six designated jack stand points: two ahead of the rear wheels, two behind the front wheels where the frame is level, and two at the very front of the frame, ahead of the engine. Always consult your vehicle’s service manual for specific jacking point diagrams and instructions.
Alt text: Diagram of Corvette jacking points from a vintage Chevrolet service manual, illustrating the factory-recommended locations for safe lifting and jack stand placement on Corvettes.
Essential Safety Considerations: The Jiggle Test and More
Once your car is resting on the jack stands, never assume it’s secure without verification. The “jiggle test” is crucial. Gently but firmly shake each end of the car to ensure the jack stands are properly seated and stable. I use both upward and side-to-side motions during this test.
Using jack stand pads is another smart safety measure. These pads, especially polyurethane ones, help to distribute the load more evenly and prevent the metal jack stand pads from scratching or damaging your car’s frame or undercarriage, particularly important if you have a meticulously detailed chassis.
Even with jack stands in place, I always leave the floor jack slightly engaged under a sturdy point like the rear axle housing or front crossmember, depending on where I’m working. This provides an additional layer of security in case of jack stand failure. Remember, never rely solely on a floor jack to support a car for extended periods. The seals in floor jacks can fail, leading to sudden and dangerous collapses.
Alt text: Jack stand positioned under the front subframe rail of a Chevy Nova, highlighting a secure location for jack stand placement on the front of the vehicle.
If you’re using ramps for the front wheels without lifting the rear, always use wheel chocks behind the rear wheels to prevent accidental roll-off. This is a simple step that can prevent serious accidents.
Avoid placing jack stands on soft surfaces like dirt or gravel. If you must work on such surfaces, use sections of plywood under the jack stands to provide a solid and level base, preventing them from sinking or shifting. The jiggle test becomes even more critical in these conditions.
Working under your car is manageable and safe if you follow these guidelines and take the necessary precautions. Taking a few extra minutes to ensure proper and safe jack stand placement is a small price to pay for your safety and well-being. It’s certainly a better option than a trip to the emergency room or dealing with vehicle damage. Stay safe and work smart!
Alt text: Summit Racing Premium Jack Stands, showcasing heavy-duty jack stands with wide bases and lever-action adjusters for automotive safety and car maintenance.
